Dusty evocations of stone share aromatic billing with basil, thyme, pit-inflected white peach and Korean melon in the 2020 Riesling Wiltinger Volz Grosses Gewächs. The palate impression is coolingly herbal, infectiously juicy yet not overtly fruity, and sets up tongue-tingling impingements that turn mouth-shakingly vibrant on a finish of sensational grip and reach, showering the palate with herbs and mineral matter while delivering consummate refreshment. Niewodniczanski’s tasting room crew initially had trouble locating bottles of Volz to insert into my lineup. “Volz has its following,” was the winking comment. And no wonder! This portion of the Braunfels Einzellage has been singled out by Niewodniczanski since the beginning of his time at Van Volxem.
- David Schildknecht (11/2021)
