Available only in magnums, the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon The GTO rumbles along, its carburetor tuned just-so, full-bodied and concentrated, framed by velvety (throaty?) tannins. Marked by scents of lovely dark-fruit notes of cassis and black cherries, plus hints of loam, this concentrated wine will be a treat to drive over the next two decades, a classic in the making?
Launched by Mark Carter in 1998 with Nils Venge as the winemaker, Carter Cellars has had access to fruit from Beckstoffer's portion of To Kalon since 2000. With that sort of longevity in the vineyard, it means some of the best blocks make it into the fermenters destined for this label. Having multiple cuvées from Beckstoffer's Las Piedras and To Kalon makes things more complicated for consumers than perhaps they need to be, but the wines do all taste slightly different. These 2019 Cabernets were made by Mike Smith, but they were blended and finished by Russell Bevan, who has recently taken over the consulting duties. As much as I admire the work of these two talented winemakers, I can't help but think that having one winemaker's vision and control from start to finish is likely to yield better results, so I'm looking forward to trying future vintages.
- Joe Czerwinski (05/2023)