Heady and head-spinningly diverse floral perfume, nut pastes and pit fruit preserves inform the nose and the luscious, glossy, creamy, delicate palate of this beauty. Nougat and quince jelly are the strongest midpalate impressions. Lime zest and fruit pit serve for welcome, enlivening counterpoint on a finish whose vibrancy and exuberance are amazing, especially from a wine of such sheer overall richness and ripeness as well as such creaminess of texture. Sweetness is prominent, but by no means excessive. The Prüms insisted that this wine issued from virtually botrytis-free albeit desiccated fruit. (There is also an auctioned bottling of Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsel – A.P. #19 – which I did not have an opportunity to taste.)
- David Schildknecht (11/2019)