Pear and apricot preserves signal already in the nose a significant influx of botrytis and indeed intimate Esszencia-like concentration. Confitured fruit dominates on the palate as well, but this elixir’s sheer sense of sweetness is by no means excessive, evidently held in check by its high acidity and extract. There is great delicacy to accompany creaminess and viscosity, and the lusciously, soothingly-lingering finish evinces a delightful sense of buoyancy. The empty glass practically explodes with floral essences as well as with pear and apricot, all of this with the ethereal intensity of a distillate but without outright volatility, and accompanied by hauntingly bready, truffly and honeyed expressions of noble rot. Here is an instance where I would refrain from even taking a peak at the wine anytime soon, given its price and the promise of that empty glass that there is so much more to come on the palate, too, if one is patient.
- David Schildknecht (09/2019)