Selected out across a wide range of parcels, mostly early in the harvest, this subtly botrytized Auslese is very prominently sweet, but that suits its confitured fruit character. Honeysuckle and lily perfume mingle with quince and pear jellies as well as marzipan and white raisin on a head-turning nose and a buoyant, luscious, glycerol-slicked palate. There is just enough fresh fruit – including an influx of lime and grapefruit – in the buoyant, superbly sustained finish to lend welcome juiciness and animation. (I was unfortunately unable to taste the corresponding gold capsule Auslese, a wine based on later selections.)
- David Schildknecht (09/2016)